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Rpm's Won't Drop


TheKoreanDream
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Post #1 post Apr 26 2009, 09:30 PM
well im new on here, but i figured mabey someone can help with this...
(my car is a 2003 tiburon)
While driving, accelerating, slowing, coasting, etc. when i push the clutch in, the RPM's do not drop down right away, it takes a few seconds (sometimes up to 10 seconds) for them to slowly drop back down. Usualy i have to just jam it into gear when im in heavy traffic or else i would get rear ended waiting for the rpm's to drop so i can shift.

maple hill auto service wanted me to buy a new exhaust manifold and they told me that it would fix the problem and cost like 1700 dollars sooooo I bought a used one in great shape for 60 dollars, threw that on there, and the problem remains.
the clutch seems fine, but I've only owned the car for about 3 months.

so far i have replaced
-throttle body
-Stock exhaust manifold (old one was cracked)
-O2 sensor.
-Throttle position sensor
-Idle Air Control sensor

Ive checked my throttle cables and lubed them up along the spring aswell. they don't stick.

but anyway, just looking for some advice and suggestions besides parking it on the train tracks over night.
thanks

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SpoolinSol
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Post #2 post Apr 26 2009, 09:53 PM
from the other thread..
QUOTE (SpoolinSol @ Apr 26 2009, 10:46 PM) *
pilot bearing, broken/weak pressure plate springs, leaking master/slave cylinder...

how the FUCK did maple hill diagnosis this problem as an issue with the exhaust mani??

do you feel the clutch disengage the same as before this problem started?


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Post #3 post Apr 26 2009, 09:55 PM
is the exhaust manifold on it cracked? if so that might be it like the dealer says...

check all vacuum lines

is the idle high when not moving?

does it have a map sensor or a mass air flow sensor, if it has a MAF then check to make sure the couplings are on and tight, no leaks, if it has a MAP sensor then check all intake gaskets and for vacuum leaks


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Post #4 post Apr 26 2009, 11:26 PM
The better question. WHat brand sensors did you replace the above mentioned with?


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Post #5 post Apr 26 2009, 11:27 PM
QUOTE (Buffman @ Apr 27 2009, 12:26 AM) *
The better question. WHat brand sensors did you replace the above mentioned with?

KDM sensors y0!


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TheKoreanDream
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Post #6 post Apr 27 2009, 09:10 AM
QUOTE (SpoolinSol @ Apr 26 2009, 10:53 PM) *
from the other thread..

how the FUCK did maple hill diagnosis this problem as an issue with the exhaust mani??

do you feel the clutch disengage the same as before this problem started?



they said sence the exhaust manifold was cracked it could be sedning a poor air/fule mixture reading to the ecu via 02 sensor and cause the rpms to jump up, That was because the check engin light was on as well.
so i replaced the manifold and new o2 sensor myself and it didnt help.

as far as the clutch goes, This problem has existed sence i bought the car, about 3 months. I thought the throttle body just need to be adjusted or cleaned when i bought it, but its turning into a bit more than that.

QUOTE (97GrandPrixGTP @ Apr 26 2009, 10:55 PM) *
is the exhaust manifold on it cracked? if so that might be it like the dealer says...

check all vacuum lines

is the idle high when not moving?

does it have a map sensor or a mass air flow sensor, if it has a MAF then check to make sure the couplings are on and tight, no leaks, if it has a MAP sensor then check all intake gaskets and for vacuum leaks



the only trouble i have with high idle is ususaly at start up in the morning. It will idle at about 2000 to 2500 rpms, so to get them to drop i turn on the a/c. kindof dumb.

I'm going to check out my intake manifold gasket and try to get to some other vacume lines when i get home from school today.
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Post #7 post Apr 27 2009, 09:50 AM
This might sound overly simplistic... but could it be the throttle cable sticking at the TB?


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Post #8 post Apr 27 2009, 10:30 AM
QUOTE (ArtSolis @ Apr 27 2009, 10:50 AM) *
This might sound overly simplistic... but could it be the throttle cable sticking at the TB?


nope, i wish though. the cable pulls and returns freely while the engin continues to rev.
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Post #9 post Apr 27 2009, 10:46 AM
Any codes?


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Post #10 post Apr 27 2009, 12:05 PM
try unplugging the IAC; maybe it's stuck open?

like jordan asked; is this a MAP or MAF set-up?


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Post #11 post Apr 27 2009, 02:53 PM
Have you tried to wiggle the rotator splint?


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TheKoreanDream
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Post #12 post Apr 27 2009, 10:06 PM
QUOTE (ArtSolis @ Apr 27 2009, 11:46 AM) *
Any codes?



yup, P0133

primary o2 sensor slow to response

already replaced the o2 sensor so i know thats good, im not sure what else could cause that cel code

QUOTE (SpoolinSol @ Apr 27 2009, 01:05 PM) *
try unplugging the IAC; maybe it's stuck open?

like jordan asked; is this a MAP or MAF set-up?



MAP, i just unplugged the throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, and checked my intake manifold gasket, along with multiple vaccume lines. everything seems to be fine.

even out of gear, no clutch ingaged, if i step on the gass the engin will obviously rev up, but then it will slowly drop down to 3000 rpms and kindof get stuck there for a while, then a second latter it will drop off to 700ish

QUOTE (Travis @ Apr 27 2009, 03:53 PM) *
Have you tried to wiggle the rotator splint?



where would this rotator splint be located? somthing to do with the TB?
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Post #13 post Apr 28 2009, 12:22 AM
Were teh sensors replaced with OEM sensors or Autostore equivilants?


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Post #14 post Apr 28 2009, 07:46 AM
QUOTE (Buffman @ Apr 28 2009, 01:22 AM) *
Were teh sensors replaced with OEM sensors or Autostore equivilants?



they werefrom autozone, i didnt have to cut any wires or anything, i just took the old one out and put the new one in. they weren't the cheap ones though.
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Post #15 post Apr 28 2009, 07:50 AM
that very well could be your problem. IAC valves are very picky. the one on my old ranger was working but not very well, so I just ended up buying one from autozone. It functioned, but resistance valves were higher than the stock one should be, and it would cause the idle not to drop when coming to a stop. it would hang at almost 2K for 10 secs then would go down.


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Post #16 post Apr 28 2009, 09:02 AM
Dont go to maple hill.... I went there about three years ago because my audi wasn't running. Spent about a grand and the car still didnt run right when it left the shop. I swear they just throw random new parts on a car and hope everything works out. They threw on a new intake manifold and throttle body on my car, when it was an ecu issue.


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Post #17 post Apr 28 2009, 10:21 AM
been discussed MANY times on the site; Maple Hill service department is GARBAGE


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Ricin' it up from the 269 to the 231...

'94 Integra LS: The bumpercar - Rest In Pieces
'94 del Sol Si: Slo Sol - SOLD
'02 250r: Batmobile - Sold
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TheKoreanDream
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Post #18 post Apr 28 2009, 10:53 AM
QUOTE (Buffman @ Apr 28 2009, 08:50 AM) *
that very well could be your problem. IAC valves are very picky. the one on my old ranger was working but not very well, so I just ended up buying one from autozone. It functioned, but resistance valves were higher than the stock one should be, and it would cause the idle not to drop when coming to a stop. it would hang at almost 2K for 10 secs then would go down.



that is interesting. That is the next thing on my list then. thanks for the suggestion.

I made an appointment to take my car to kzoo auto imports, anyone every used them before?

and about Maple Hill.... they suck balls, the time i took my car in, they sent it through thier car wash and it bent my licens plate in half and the guy was just like, "oh well the car wash wouldnt do that" on top of that they wouldnt fix my car.
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Post #19 post Apr 28 2009, 11:05 AM
I was messing around with the vaccum lines for my catch can... and I hooked everything up... well, I had your same issue after I took it for a little spin... Coming to a light the rpm's would hang and slowly drop after I came to stop...

I would check your vaccum lines coming off the intake manifold... cracked or collapsed lines...



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Post #20 post Apr 28 2009, 12:41 PM
well autozone parts suck balls, id go with OEM or napa parts especialy when it comes to sensors, that could be your problem right there...

as well as many other possibilities that arrize when someome that tries to fix something by unplugging random sensors and seeing if that makes a difference.

take your car to a real mechanic and be happy...

i sugest roses service center in paw paw michigan, but that may be a drive for you...


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Post #21 post Apr 28 2009, 01:11 PM
QUOTE (97GrandPrixGTP @ Apr 28 2009, 01:41 PM) *
well autozone parts suck balls, id go with OEM or napa parts especialy when it comes to sensors, that could be your problem right there...

as well as many other possibilities that arrize when someome that tries to fix something by unplugging random sensors and seeing if that makes a difference.

take your car to a real mechanic and be happy...

i sugest roses service center in paw paw michigan, but that may be a drive for you...



No autozone parts don't suck balls. It's just some electrical sensors are very specific and should only be trusted by replacing them with OEM sensors. Napa shit is no better than autozone, and way more expensive. You've got a lot to learn..


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Post #22 post Apr 28 2009, 04:55 PM
QUOTE (Buffman @ Apr 28 2009, 02:11 PM) *
No autozone parts don't suck balls. It's just some electrical sensors are very specific and should only be trusted by replacing them with OEM sensors. Napa shit is no better than autozone, and way more expensive. You've got a lot to learn..



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Post #23 post Apr 28 2009, 08:22 PM
definitely sounds vacuum related. i'd start by burning a cigarette near the intake manifold to see if the smoke gets sucked in anywhere it's not supposed to. that's really the best way to check for small vacuum leaks.
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Post #24 post Apr 28 2009, 08:26 PM
Cigars put out more smoke. And they are cheaper. Get some swisher sweets.


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Post #25 post Apr 28 2009, 08:39 PM
Or try some brake clean, just don't start a fire.


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