Well... Just about an hour or so ago i was about to head out for a drive because i had installed my ported 2g exhaust manifold and i wanted to go for a bit of a spirited drive. So anyways... i had my hood up to check my oil and coolant levels when i noticed this...





I'm still not sure what caused this night mare seeing as that belt was replace like 25000 miles ago. I'll keep updating this as i learn more. For now i'm just gonna jack up the car, take off the driver side motor mount, jack up the motor, and pull off the timming belt cover to see if i can't figure out what the fuck went wrong.

I'm still undecided on what i'm going to do. I have enough money to do a timming belt job but i also have a spare block and i'm getting set of 9:1's and some 1g big rods from loki and i do plan on rebuilding a motor over the winter. This would cost a lot more but it just might be worth it to me like i said i haven't decided yet. All of this is a bit discouraging my car's been breaking down alot lately and i'm starting to get fed up with all of these stupid problems i've been having most of them are little mind you but can cause some big problems.

That's.....unique...

Yep, looks like a bolt fell down there and started rubbing against the belt. I had that happen to one of my timing belts once, except mine was worn down the middle so there were basically 2 really thin timing belts. I got really lucky, looks like you did too.

so.....did you bend any valves?

Thats what i was thinkin i did lose an exhaust manifold nut yesterday when i put the exhaust manifold back on the car. I'm thinkin thats what did it but when i pulled the timming cover off i couldn't find it. All though it could have fell out on the road.


No thankfuly i got lucky.

that's what you get for not running an upper timing cover.

Yes i realize that but all of mine are warped and they rub on my gears hence why i don't run them. I should have searched better for that lost exhaust manifold nut and none of that shit would have happend. I realize this was all my ownfault... Shit happns... Atleast my valves didn't get bent.

I took some pictures of the damage with the timming cover off just thought i'd post them up.

Well at least its not too bad to fix that, your only out $80 for a new belt and a few hours of your time. Good to see you can do your own work though.

Ya i might just do the whole job thought i noticed my idler pullie was kinda lose i think i'm gonna replace that while i'm at it. do you know of the dealer shit still keeps the oem timming belt parts in stock or would they have to order them? I know they charge more but it would be worth it if i could have my car back on the road this week.

They had the timing belt and both pulleys in stock when I did my last job last summer. If Zeigler doesn't have them, try calling up Chrysler dealership off of W. Main. They had an auto tensioner that I needed in stock and it ended up being cheaper than the Mitsu dealership (even though it's the same part).

Even if they don't have them in stock, they usually get it there the next day as long as you get there before like 1pm.

Shop around.

You may be able to score a Greddy or HKS timing belt for only a hair more than the OEM cost.

Plus, unlike the stock belts, both companies timing belt's are reinforced with Kevlar.

When it comes to rebuild time on my B18B, I'm going to be using the Greddy Extreme timing belt.

The kevlar reinforcement insurance seems more than worth it. Bent Valves = $$$.

---richard

meh, I'm running a kevlar belt.

they really aren't going to resist something like this, it just takes longer to stretch.

they allow you to do timing belt at 100k instead of 60k.

Are all DSM's finicky about the timing belt life? When I was looking into that Stealth, I kept reading that the timing belt and all surrounding parts MUST be changed at 60k or else the thing could snap at any second...

Shortened.

Now it's proper! =D

The answer to that question, YES!

---richard

I called Zeigler they didn't have the parts in stock and since they'd have to order the parts they wanted the payment up front and all i've got is the cash in my bank account so i just got on dimondstarmotorsports and had a friend order the parts with a card. It'll take the same amount of time to get the parts for 3 dollars more than the delarship.



Like loki said they just take longer to stretch. I'm gonna order one when i rebuild my other motor but for now i don't want to spend more money than i have to because after all i only plan on using this motor maybe another year if that. I'll save my money and put the good parts on the brand new motor i'm gonna build.



Its STRONGLY RECOMMENDED but its doesn't always happen. You often get the people who just don't do the regular up keep on their cars for what ever reason or the shop that likes to cut corrners and the don't replace ALL of the parts that their suposed to replace. That makes up a good majority of the cases you hear where the belts will snap. I knew of a kid(not loki) who bought a talon with 70 some thousand miles. The guy he bought it from told him that he needed to replace the belt because it was the original belt and the kid didn't listen and drove the car with the orignal belt and put another 50 some odd thousand miles on it before it snaped.

Keep in mind not every belts gonna snap right at 60k but if you don't replace the parts when recommended you do run the risk of those old pars wearing out. But then again if you do chose to not do your regular maintenance and you belt snaps its your own fault.

That goes for any interference engine that runs on a timing belt really...some of the round tooth belts are good for longer than that...also of note most companies recommend changing the timing belt every 4 years regardless of mileage.

Kevlar or not, I'd still only chance 60k on a timing belt...because even though the belt may last longer, all the other components are only rated at 60k.

I actually end up replacing mine about once a year seeing as I seem to upgrade the head/cam/gear set-up about that often.

That's very true.

Ya good point.

I just got all my parts in so i'll be starting to work on my car soon i'll be taking pictures of the progress.

your luck sucks. just yesterday i remeber you saying "nothing is wrong with it now" at the meet

Ya see "NOW" its a very temporary thing with dsms now means its not broken yet but in 5 minuets or 5 miles which ever come first something could break. Sadly enough for me who ever own this car in the past didn't treat it very well and the dealer(NOT PORTER'S PERFORMANCE) that i bought the car from was a fuck tart and didn't know how to work on these cars either. He was the cause of my first bellhousing to break. When he replaced the clutch before he sold the car he forgot to put the alignment dowls back in.

I've had alot of issues with this car in the past 3 years of owner ship most were minor simple fixes. Most people would have cut their losses by now but it doesn't make any sense to me. You see i've fixed soo many things now that if i were to sell this car and buy another dsm(i wouldn't own any other car especialy not a honda no ofense to any of you guys on here i'd rather have a dsm.) I'd have alot of the same problems minus the whole bellhousing breaking bullshit.

Yes i realize i've had bad luck with this car and i should have shopped around more but to have found a dsm that same color and model i would have had to travel a ways. I didn't have that option. I love my dsm. Ya sure theres alot of other cars out there that are lot more reliable and just as fun to drive but i don't see my self in many other cars. I didn't buy my car to be cool or what ever other shit reason most kids buy a car for. I bought my car because thats the exact color and model of dsm i've wanted since i was 16.

My progress....

I see my arm...


and hands.


i was wondering what was going on when I was under the car, I could have sworn I saw a flash.

yep. Every things running fine for now other than it did idle high but thats an easy fix.

I had to raise the idle to set the base timing, lol.

remember, the blaha hates life when the engine isn't completely warm.